Sunday, January 26, 2014

Haute Couture spring-summer 2014, fashion to dream.

Paris hosts these days the week of Haute Couture. I have always thought that Haute Couture is fashion for dreaming, because the majority of mortals will never put these dresses and are not the kind of clothes that would reproduce Inditex. Therefore, even if it is intended to be carried by some many privileged, its essence is this and they should always be dreamy garments. Some get it, some not: Let's see what's this season.

The truth is that it gives laziness start by Armani Privé, but going by alphabetical order. Yesterday commented with Dave Aiman boring and repetitive that find me this signature. Their entire philosophy in recent seasons is like a summer song that is repeated over and over again the same chorus. Always tones bluish, always satin, always classic, always a flawless tailoring but a design at all risky. This does not make me dream, give me sleep.

It is true that Atelier Versace also repeats a same formula in their collections: your touch kitsch, its Baroque details, its vivid colors... but it is a formula that is repeated in essence, brand identity, and recreated each season with a resounding success. For some Versace is the tacky. For me it is the funny firm, which makes me dream of those celebrities who come to a red carpet and make a difference.

Chanel returned to their eighties with icons of the firm as the tweed but also with sequins, feathers, and Spotlight: sports with Haute Couture. @VogueSpain that "Karl Lagerfeld shows that sports can combine with Haute Couture," he said on Twitter. Well, shows that it is possible, but you do not take it as a rule: not always goes well. And what has not since then can combine with Haute Couture or with nothing are neither those of the protagonist of Pokémon hairstyles and poses some models rarunas.

Here I will soften a bit and I'm going to be seduced by Raf Simmons. They are already a few seasons at Christian Dior and, while I still think that Galliano only one, Raf pushes strong this time. Recover forms from the new look of Dior and gives them a modern, very feminine and successful touch. Variety of colors and textures but still lacks to find its own way of making clothes not only beautiful and correct, but unique.

If we talk about dreaming and Haute Couture, the undisputed winner is Elie Saab. In fact their seasonal collections are already practically Couture. He knows how to turn women into princesses. His color palette is infinite because it's what matters least: he knows how to give form to romantic dreams, sensual dreams or simply creative dreams. You could dress any woman and make her happy with take 10 minutes one of their dresses. Wonderful.

I also love Giambattista Valli. Make a gala dress, long and sensual, it is less complicated to get the perfect cocktail dress and therein he embroider it. Flowers, lace, asymmetries, peplum and all kinds of symbols of femininity are combined with exquisite originality in its collection which can certainly make dream.

Some think that safari-inspired collections are already very views and that if you aren't Cavalli or DVF, you better go to something else. On the other hand, if this inspiration mix it with something as seemingly opposite as the romanticism of Valentino, we create something new and different. Lace, ethnic-inspired, animal print tulle long in muted tones to give shape. It is true that it is not the best, no mistake, but only something new can create new dreams.

I don't know if you will share my view on Haute Couture, so I want to know what have been your favorite?

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